Gear
1-5kts: board shorts, lycra rash guard, short boots (I prefer rooster), and a hat. In light wind i prefer using a J-sail red, because it has a deep cut, and superior shape for pointing high, another sail that is very similar to this sail is the Intensity cross cut sail.
5-10kts: Skin tight pants (I prefer Snapper rock) with board shorts over them, long boots (Ronstan), spray top and a warm hat. In medium/light wind i would use the blue J-sail, as long as you can hike to hold down the power of the sail
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10-15kts: fleece pants, spray pants (Gill), fleece top (Musto), *hiking pants, spray top (Gill), warm hat, gloves (Rooster Winterpro)In these conditions, i prefer a sail with a little bit shallower shape, but still with enough power to blast through the waves and chop, i like the north sails H-08, and the intensity radial sail.
*hiking pants are great if you need a little extra help hiking, but also keep you very warm
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15+: Whatever gear you can get bring out on a coach boat, but otherwise wear the gear from 10-15 kts with a layer of fleece added on. For me, since i am on the smaller side, i prefer the North sails L-08 because it is super flat and easy to keep the boat down with.
I also have a Musto Championship bouyancy Aid.
I like it because it is small, and easy to sail with.
Unfortunately, nobody sells these in United states, so i had to order it from England
when using this lifejacket, always check the sailing instructions for specific lifejacket requirements.
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Current
When sailing with current, it is important to look at a depth chart, and a tide chart.
depending on which direction the current is flowing, you want to either get into it, so it will push you, or out of it, so it doesn't push you back. So, the current always flows faster in deeper water, so if you want to get into it check out my depth chart and look where your course is going to be and see where deep parts are and where shallow parts are. If you want to get out of the current, look for the shallow parts and stay in them. And remember, You always have to do the opposite on the upwind as you do on the downwind when dealing with current. For example, If you go right to stay out of the current on the upwind because it is more shallow, look for deep parts to sail at for the downwind to stay in the current and have it push you, and vise versa
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Boat
For spars, Hull, and other accessories, everyone has a different opinion, but i will show you everything that performs the highest, and lasts the longest.
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Hull: I prefer Winner hulls because they are better made boats. I have had my boat for 5+ years and the bottom practically looks brand new. It still sails as though i have just bought it.
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Spars: If you are serious with racing and you are a heavier kid, go with optimax spars, if you are lighter, but still race competitively, use black gold spars.
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Blades: I used to use tebermann blades, and now i use N1 foils. When i charter boats, they come with optiparts blades. Honestly, i dont think there is a difference between them
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Rigging: I would suggest low stretch line for all of your rigging on your boat. The rigging is called amsteel, it is great for halyards, and other rigging on your boat
main sheet: I prefer to have a fat mainsheet because it is easier to grip than a skinny one.
it is called swiftcord-Maffoli
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Block: for my mainsheet block, i like the Ronstan Orbit Block because it can be turned to auto ratchet, ratchet, and free.
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